Parts
Radio Shack: 270-288 box for the led module, 270-409 4-aa enclosed battery holder with built in switch, they also have a belt clip(270-033) that can be added to the battery box. Hardware store: brass sheet stock - look in the hobby metal area, rubber plumbing gasket material, 6x32 threaded rod, 6x32 threaded spacers, shrink tubing, finger nuts- look around most hardware stores have all sorts of really neat hardware in drawers in the back, sticky back Velcro is usually available here as well. Fabric store: elastic and buckles. RG-174 can be found at some electronics shops, mail ordered, or (my favorite) ham radio swap meets.

Led assembly
I drilled the holes for the leds in the top cover of the led enclosure (270-288) using the template that came with the ULM. I drilled a small hole on one edge of the cover to allow the RG-174 to exit the box. I had to do just a little bit of filing on the module to get it to fit, as I wanted. Strip the ends of the co ax, peel the shield back, and strip the center lead. De solder the power leads from the led module and solder in the co ax- I use the center lead for the red or positive connection as a personal standard since I like to use this cable for lots of projects like this, the shield goes to the other connection. I put a small piece of heat shrink tubing on the RG-174 inside the case to act as strain relief when the box is closed up.

Battery box
I opened the battery box (270-409) and to get at the leads I had to pry off a small access panel at the top. I replaced the leads with the RG-174 as in the led assy and sealed the panel back on with hot glue, which is also used to provide strain relief on the battery end. At this point the light is fully functional and the next step is to decide how to mount the unit.

Head strap
I found some nice 1inch elastic and buckles to match at a fabric shop - actually my wife was nice enough to find it for me. At the hardware store I found some heavy rubber gasket material in the plumbing section and cut 2 rectangular pieces. I used sheet brass from the hobby section to form a hinge to hold the led assy to the head strap.

I started with the hinge. I cut 2 small rectangles with a small ear or projection at the bottom - cutting one rectangle just a bit wider so they would fit inside each other. I smoothed out the rough edges of the brass with a hand file then drilled a hole in the ears to fit a 6x32 threaded rod and folded them at right angles to the rest of the rectangles. Between the ears I put a threaded spacer that just filled the open space, threaded the 6x32 rod through the hinge and put 2 neat knurled brass finger nuts on the outside. I did put a pair of star lock washers under the finger nuts. The hinge seems to work well as I adjust it- I find that the closer I'm using the headlamp the lower I aim it so a fixed support would not work for me. You can tell that I am not too great at metal work, this is simple and roughly made but it works well.

Once the hinge was completed I cut slots into the ends and top of 2 larger rectangles of the gasket material. I pop riveted the hinge to one gasket piece and used the other behind it to protect my forehead from the rivets.

The elastic was threaded through the slots on the ends of the gasket and sewn with a buckle to make an adjustable strap. The top strap was threaded through the slot on top of the gasket and just looped around the horizontal elastic strap again with an adjusting buckle. I put a couple key rings on the top strap to guide the power cord to the back of the head strap. The attachment of the led assy to the brass hinge is using sticky back Velcro. The led assy is so light this is more than secure enough. One note- I've found that in the summer the temp in my car when parked in the sun can get high enough to soften the glue on the Velcro, on cooling it works again - this is above the temp I can stand but if you store a unit using this system be aware it might not be best to store it in a closed car. The Velcro was too thick to work well in a sewing machine so it is hand sewn.

Since the led assy is held on with Velcro its easy to move to other mounts I am finding other uses for the unit. The picture shows a magnetic base with another piece of Velcro and I'm planning on making an attachment for the Optivisor binocular magnifiers I need to use for a lot of the electronics I do as my eyes aren't't as good as they used to be. The hinge holds the led assy high and forward so I get no backflash from the leds into my eyes. This thing is really lightweight and comfortable.